The Ted Perez Cocktail of the Week is the Sidecar. By our books the Sidecar was invented by an American Army Captain living in Paris during World War I. The name comes from the motorcycle sidecar that the Captain would often ride into the city. As an old bird tells it, he was so chilled from riding in the wintery months that he would enjoy the warming combination of cognac brandy, Cointreau and lemon juice. Despite debate, what's certain about the Sidecar's history is that the rejuvenating cocktail is now the most common Cognac cocktail in Paris. The cocktail has two main variations: one with brandy and one with Cognac. Over two weeks, Ted Perez + Associates will be sampling both variations with five separate labels of both brandy and Cognac. This week, five brandy labels were chosen from a variety of countries including the United States, Spain, Scotland and Germany. This week's variation was also mixed using Grand Marnier in place of Cointreau.
Ted Perez's Variation:
3 oz brandy
1.5 oz Grand Marnier
~1 oz fresh squeezed lemon juice
Shake with ice and strain into a sugar-rimmed, pre-chilled glass
Osocalis Alambic Brandy
Osocalis is made in small batch antique Charentals at a artisanal distillery in Soquel, California. This blend uses Colombard and Pinot Noir grapes and apples from the cooler costal regions of California.
Taste: Very tart [causing a reduction of lemon juice in subsequent mixes] and sweet. Unfortunately, the Osocalis' rich flavors overwhelm the cocktail. Sadly, despite being a complex, fun brandy, the Osocalis does not seem to want anything to do with participating in a brandy Sidecar.
Overall: C+
Torres 10 Imperial Brandy Gran Reserva
This Spanish brandy presents a confident, balanced flavor [a pleasant surprise given it's modest price point] thanks, in part, to fused oak and the strong aroma of venerable distillates.
Taste: On the smooth side, alone the brandy has a small smoke profile that when combined with the other players involved in the Sidecar helps balance the sweet/tart argument. Sadly, for our panel, the Torres also exuded a brazen, almost boozy quality we vastly prefer in an escort over a cocktail.
Overall: B-
Gran Duque D Alba
Distilled in Glasgow, Scotland by William Grant & Sons, sellers of the world's best-selling Russian vodka (Stolichnaya) as well as the ultimate threshold gin Hendrick's.
Taste: Like the bottle design, Tha Duke is immediate and distinct. One must workt, but the smoke after the rind of this brandy is a wonderful find. Alas, while working we might prefer a drink but never do we pine for a spot of work while drinking.
Overall: B
Terry Centenario
Produced exclusively with distilled spirit and aged by the traditional "Solera" method [system in which the spirit is distilled for, in this case, three years in oak butts that have been previously seasoned with sherry], the Terry is Spain's best selling brandy.
Taste: A good, solid cocktail. The Terry is, as their label indicates, a workhorse. There's no need to play Cervantes here - a solid mix. ¡Bueno!
Overall: B
Asbach Uralt
Germany's "Great Brandy from the Rhine". Matured in Limousin oak barrels. Flavor profile is similar to bourbon rather than Cognac.
Taste: Smoke - that is the immediate impression one gathers from the neck. Oddly though, the embers are left just as the glass meets the lips and the sip is a wonderful, modest mix of sweet and tart. In our mix, the Asbach played along very nicely creating the week's finest taste.
Overall: B+
Verdict
In general, the ranking of the cocktails are in the same order in which they were tasted. Earlier versions either had too much of a 'bite' or didn't have the correct combination and balance of flavors. The Terry Centenario improved in flavor balance after the first few sips, but the Asbach Uralt maintained excellent flavor balance from beginning to end (with the addition of the smoke flavor).