Ted Perez's cocktail of the week is a second, and the original, variation of the Sidecar Cocktail (mixed with Cognac). Both brandy and Cognac are interchangeably used in the cocktail since both are essentially wine that has been distilled. What is important to know, however, is that all Cognac is brandy but not all brandy is Cognac. Brandy can be distilled from almost any fruit in any region. Cognac, on the other hand, is made from grapes grown in the Cognac region of France. There are also strict guidelines for how Cognac is made. It must be distilled twice and then poured into oak casts made from Limousin or Troncais oak (these trees are found in forests in the Cognac region) - this aging process is very costly due to the fact that about 60% of the Cognac evaporates.
A Cognac grading system, invented by Maurice Hennessy, in 1865 is used on every bottle of Cognac. Grades include VS, VSOP and XO which are aged for 3, 5 and 6+ years, respectively. Over the past week, Ted Perez tested and analyzed five labels with the Sidecar including Cognacs from the Landy, Hennessy and Hardy distilleries.
Ted Perez's Variation:
3 oz cognac
1 oz Cointreau
~.5 oz fresh squeezed lemon juice
Shake with ice and strain into a sugar-rimmed, pre-chilled glass
Hennessy VS Cognac
Taste had overwhelming orange notes from the Cointreau, which prompted the reduction to 1 oz [instead of 1.5 oz]. Overall, this variation tends to be less sweet than brandy and Grand Marnier, which is welcome. Strangely, and we take a majority of the blame as we poured the cocktail, he Hennessy had little to add to the drink.
Overall: C-
Landy VS Cognac
The reduction of the Cointreau vastly improved the drinkability of the cocktail. While still citrusy, the flavor was much less pronounced, leaving more room for the Cognac flavors to come through. The Landy came on strong in flavor and fell to the wings quickly. A more assertive, yet balanced, Cognac would have really helped this variation stand out.
Overall: B-
La Reviseur VSOP Cognac
This variation offered a light, pleasant balance of flavors. Although not much stronger than the Landy, the Le Reviseur had much more character - an oaky, grilled noted with a clean finish.
Overall: B
Courvoisier VS Cognac
This variation offered a great balance of flavors between the Cognac, lemon and Cointreau. Courvoisier's stronger presence yielded a bit of a 'kick' at mid sip and a slight, lingering reminder after finish. Overall, like the 'Hen, not what we expected given the cultural profile of Courvoisier. A pleasant surprise if not a great cocktail.
Overall: B
Hardy VSOP Cognac
The Hardy VSOP offered the most confident Cognac contribution to the mix while not overwhelming the cocktail. A full flavor profile included light floral notes and a warm, fruity bouquet. Excellent combination and Ted Perez’s favorite.
Overall: A-
Verdict
When comparing VS to VSOP Cognacs, we generally found that VSOP had stronger flavor/aroma as well as a more complex profile. VS Cognacs tended to be more 'watered down' or not potent enough to detect over the Cointreau. Between the two VSOP cognacs (La Reviseur and Hardy), the Hardy tended to have stronger flavor and a more complex flavor profile.