In lieu of the traditional weekly cocktail, Ted Perez + Associates did a two week taste testing of wine and cheese pairings, specifically cheeses that pair with Riesling. Riesling is a white, aromatic grape varietal that has perfumed aromas in addition to a high acidity [hence its characteristic dry and crisp taste]. The high acidity of Riesling also makes it suitable for extended aging (high quality or off-dry Riesling wine has been enjoyed at an age exceeding 100 years). Riesling's long history extends as far back as the 15th century when Count John IV of Katzenelnbogen referenced "22 shillings of Riesling vine cuttings for the vineyard" in his storage inventory [dated March 13, 1435]. In 1477, the grape was also documented in Alsace under the spelling "Rissling".
Riesling is highly "terrier-expressive", meaning the character and taste of the wine can vary greatly based on its place of origin. In order to maintain a greater variety of flavors and characteristics, labels were selected from almost every major Riesling-producing region including Germany, France, California and Australia. To pair with these varying labels, Ted Perez selected popular cheeses from each wine's respective region. Pairings include Monterey Jack and Colby Jack cheeses from California, Morbier cheese from France and Gouda cheese from Germany.
Jekel Vineyards Monterey Riesling 2008 w/ Vella Monterey Dry Jack Cheese
Jekel's wine is sourced from their vineyard in the Arroyo Seco appellations [Northern Monterey County, California]. The unique soil composition in this ancient alluvial plain, which consists of cobblestone and depleted soils, yields grapes of depth, character and concentrated flavors. The mild climate encourages bud break two weeks earlier than other regions, as well as extends the season nearly two weeks longer. The dry Monterey Jack from Vella Cheese Co. is made in a similar manner to regular Jack, however, its aged for an additional 7 to 10 months to give it firm, pale yellow characteristics.
Taste: Medium body and sweetness, however not too much depth. Slightly sour aftertaste. The Dry Jack had a delicate sweet, nutty flavor, which complimented the wine well. The whole milk used in the cheese gave it a rich, creamy texture.
Albert Mann Vin D'Alsace Riesling 2007 w/ Emmi Kaltbach Cave Aged Gruyere Cheese
Albert Mann is the collaboration of two winemaking families [one since the beginning of the 17th century and one since 1654]. The grapes used in their Riesling come from the Wettolsheim Vineyard in Alsace in northeastern France. The raw cows milk Gruyere from Emmi is cave-aged for 12-14 months and results in a much more robust flavor profile. In addition, the aging process creates unique protein crystals that give the texture added dimension.
Taste: Lighter bodied than the other labels. Dry and crisp taste with a sour edge [no aftertaste]. Alcohol taste was fairly prevalent over other labels. Since the wine was mellower on the palate, it didn't overpower the cheese.
Trimbach Riesling Alsace, France 2007 w/ Morbier Raw Milk Cheese
The Trimbach family has been producing fine wines at their winery, Maison Trimbach in Ribeauvillé, for almost four centuries. The region is dominant in limestone and benefits from the Alsatian microclimate provided by the nearby Vosges Mountains [they help preserve the plain from heavy rain]. Their Riesling is considered the signature wine of the Family and is harvested from Grands Crus and Osterberg [two clay-limestone soils]. Morbier is a semi-soft cows' milk cheese from France that's named after the small village of Morbier in Franche-Comté. The cheese has a characteristic tasteless layer of ash separating it horizontally in the middle. Traditionally, the cheese consists of a layer of morning milk and a layer of evening milk [hence the ash separator].
Taste: Wine was medium bodied with a slight tartness on the palette, however, it was not as sweet/sour as most Rieslings tested. It was also very dry, similar to Champagne. The Morbier was soft and creamy with a mellow, balanced flavor. While pairing, the cheese brought out more of the wine's fruity notes [apple and peach]. Excellent combination.
Kerpen Riesling 2006 w/ Creamy Goat Gouda Cheese
Kerpen's vineyards are situated in Graacher Himmelreich and Wehlener Sonnenuhr [Germany], among other areas. The winery, which has been exclusively producing Riesling for over 250 years, cultivates its grape from the mineral-rich Devonian shale rock soil. Gouda cheese, which is named after the city of Gouda in the Netherlands, is a semi-hard yellow cheese made from goat's milk. Gouda made with goats' milk tends to be smoother and more velvety than that of cows' milk Gouda.
Taste: Wine was distinctively sweet with strong fruity notes throughout. Moderate body with very little 'tingle' on the tongue. Finish was long and fruity. Although the cheese had a pungent aroma, it's flavor was much more mellow. Creamy flavor was sweet, which tended to be a bit excessive when paired with the sweet, fruity wine.
Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Riesling 2007 w/ Winchester Medium Aged Gouda Cheese
The wine estates of Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben, located in the Mosel wine region of Germany, has carried its name since the beginning of the 19th century. The vineyards are exclusively planted with root-genuine vines that are partially over 100 years old. The Boere Kaas [farm made] medium aged Gouda cheese by the Winchester Cheese Company is aged a minimum of three months. Winchester produces its cheese at its dairy farm that contains about 500 Holstein cows.
Taste: The wine was by far the sweetest of the labels tested [almost dessert wine-like]. Syrupy body had fruit notes of apricot, mango and papaya. There was also an immediate tingling sensation detected while tasting. The Gouda was distinctively sharp and tangy with a slight bitterness in the aftertaste. When paired, the wine's sweetness made the cheese's flavor subtler.
Stay tuned for Part 2 of Ted Perez's Riesling/cheese tasting, as well as the final verdict on favorite wine, favorite cheese and favorite pairing. Selections will include labels from Australia, California and Washington.