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April 28, 2010

Cocktail of the Week: Whisky

FILED UNDER: Cocktail of the Week

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For the Drink of Week, Ted Perez + Associates undertook a tasting/study of Whisky. The three-week process encompassed three different varieties: American Bourbon whisky, Irish whisky and Scotch whisky. If wondering, no, this was not an onerous assignment nor is it even remotely representative of what could have been. Rather, a good excuse to revisit some old friends [Lagavulin + Red Breast] and get to know a few new friends.

 

Whisky’s history began in 1494 with a major milestone in distilling. In the Exchequer Rolls of that year, there was a purchase recorded of “eight bolls of malt to Friar John Cor wherewith to make aqua vitae”. This was the first written record of whisky production in Scotland. Soon after this, whisky distilling spread outside the monastic setting and into private homes and farms. During this time, the whisky distilled was consumed very young and tended to have a very harsh, brutal taste. It was not allowed to mature until the middle of the eighteenth century when an owner of an old forgotten whisky cask tried some of the batch and discovered that its flavor was better than ever.

In 1707, the Acts of Union merged England and Scotland, resulting in a dramatic increase on the drink’s taxes. After the English Malt Tax of 1725, much of the whisky production was either shut down or forced underground. By the beginning of the nineteenth century, over half of all whisky in Scotland was produced by illegal means. Illegal production, smuggling and crime became so common that in the 1820’s the government passed the Excise Act (among others) that greatly reduced illicit distilling within only a few years.

Numerous innovations in distilling came in the following decades. These included the invention of the twin-column still in 1831 and the 1852 introduction of blending between the Coffey and traditional stills. Much of whisky’s modern development is due to the introduction of blending (90% of all whisky produced in Scotland is used in blended whisky), however, there has been a recent interest/movement towards re-developing single malt whisky.

Additional information on the background of whisky is available through Whisky.com, ScotchWhisky.net’s timeline and The Whisky Guide. There is also detailed information on its various classes via Wikipedia. 

 

American Bourbon Whisky

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Bourbon whisky is made from mash that contains at least 51% corn. While it’s common that most Bourbon whisky is produced in Kentucky, it is not a requirement. The only prerequisites are that it be produced in the United States and that it must be stored for at least two years in new, charred oak barrels.

Blanton's Bourbon Whisky [93 proof]

Nose: Almost no smell. Light peaty nose.
Taste: Very silky/velvety. Balanced in taste with a burnt sweetness. Also, not too alcoholic in taste.
Finish: Strong, medium length finish, however, it goes down smoothly.

Noah’s Mill Bourbon Whisky [114.3 proof]

Nose: Strong, sweet caramel nose.
Taste: Syrupy/silky body. Flavor is very rich and slight woodsy (improves as the drink chills).
Finish: Smooth finish with good length and a warming sensation.

Willett Bourbon Whisky [121.5 proof]

Nose: Sweet, smoky nose along with sweet brown sugar.
Taste: Very harsh. Thick mouth feel with a flavor profile of sweet corn and oaky dryness.
Finish: Long after burn. A little dry, but also spicy.

Bulleit Bourbon Whisky [90 proof]

Nose: Very light fragrant nose. Herbal flowery scent.
Taste: Very smooth, but not very full in flavor (similar to the Willett).
Finish: Smooth, sweet finish. No aftertaste.

Johnny Drum Bourbon Whisky [91 proof]

Nose: Very strong nose (most fragrant of the Bourbons tested).
Taste: Strong flavor from the sour mash along with moderate smoothness. “Middle of the Road”.
Finish: Moderate drinkability with a slight lingering mouth feel.

 

Scotch Whisky

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Single malt Scotch whisky is produced in one of Scotland’s six major whisky-producing regions: Islay, Lowlands, Speyside, Highlands, Campbeltown and Islands. Each of these regions will typically vary in their choice of raw materials, climate variations and production techniques, resulting in their distinctive characteristics. Whiskies produced in Scotland are typically peaty, although they vary in strength.

Oban Single Malt Scotch Whisky [86 proof]

Nose: Very strong nose. Fruity with a little peat.
Taste: Full flavored with a slight peaty base. Well rounded with spiciness.
Finish: Extremely smooth and very drinkable.

Lagavulin Single Malt Scotch Whisky [86 proof]

Nose: Peaty nose (very pronounced) with smoke and butterscotch.
Taste: Strong, potent flavor with notes of leather, oak and salt.
Finish: Moderately smooth with a long lingering, spicy essence in the mouth.

The Glenlivet 12 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky [80 proof]

Nose: Fragrant nose, almost floral.
Taste: Very smooth with less peaty flavor. Slightly fruity with notes of apple.
Finish: Smooth. No lingering aftertaste.

The Dalmore 12 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky [86 proof]

Nose: Strong, peaty nose with a bit of fruitiness.
Taste: Harsher mouth-feel. Woodsy and a little bit of citrus, but not very dynamic. Surprisingly, very little peat.
Finish: Moderately smooth, but with a dull, short aftertaste. 

 

Irish Whisky

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Irish whisky is very similar to Scotch whisky, but there are a few differences in its production. Typically, not all barley used in Irish whisky is malted. Also, the Irish malt used in the distillation process is dried without the use of peat or other types of smoke (like its Scotch counterpart). Irish whisky is also triple distilled in larger stills. This produces a softer, more rounded flavor.

Bushmills Black Bush Irish Whisky [80 proof]

Nose: Light nose.
Taste: Very smooth with a thicker mouth-feel. Not peaty, but instead it was a bit sweet.
Finish: Smooth, flavorful finish.

Red Breast Irish Whisky [80 proof]

Nose: Sweet nose. Oak, vanilla and malt.
Taste: Drinkability was near water. Sweet and dense with flavors of maple syrup, vanilla and caramel (more flavor than Bushmills).
Finish: Long, warming, sweet aftertaste.

Michael Collins Single Malt Irish Whisky [80 proof]

Nose: Very little scent.
Taste: Moderate smoothness, but not as refined or dynamic as the others.
Finish: Vodka-type aftertaste.

Jameson 12 Year Old Irish Whisky [80 proof]

Nose: Malt with sweetness.
Taste: Very smooth with strong body. Buttery sweet flavor.
Finish: Moderate drinkability. Warming and quick.

Tullamore Dew Crock Irish Whisky [80 proof]

Nose: Light nose. Earthy and slightly grainy.
Taste: Just as smooth as Jameson, but with a lighter balanced flavor of malt and grain.
Finish: Balanced flavor, but with a slight bite.

 

Verdict

American Bourbon Whisky: Noah’s Mill Bourbon Whisky
This Bourbon held the best balance of full body and flavor, while maintaining a silky texture and smooth finish. The woodsy backdrop was also well appreciated.

Scotch Whisky: Lagavulin Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Holding strong to a traditional Scotch Whisky, this was strong and peaty from start to finish while not sacrificing other complimentary flavors like oak and leather. Finish wasn’t quite as smooth as the others, but the lingering, spicy essence set this one apart.

Irish Whisky: Red Breast Irish Whisky
An overall well balanced Irish Whisky, Red Breast contained an interesting pairing of sweet vanilla and oaky wood. Very high drinkability and rich flavor outranked the others tested.

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